Patek Philippe’s new Ref. 4895R Calatrava High Jewellery Watch follows the classic elegant appearance of Calatrava and is set with brilliant diamonds, blooming a magnificent fire. Crafted by watchmakers and case craftsmen, this jewellery watch masterpiece combines the extraordinary creativity of Patek Philippe’s design department with the craftsmanship of jewellery manufacturers to present an unparalleled artistic beauty.
The artistic charm of high jewelry
The new Ref. 4895R timepiece features an 18K rose gold case, following the classic round case design of the Calatrava watch first introduced by the brand in 1932, and turning it into a pavé diamond “garland” display stage. 162 baguette diamonds (approximately 5.62 carats) surround the dial, forming five rows at most, and the charming glow of fire extends to the strap. All baguette diamonds are embedded in the base using a setting technique, which brings the warm rose gold tone of the bezel to the white contrast of the diamonds. This setting method poses a great challenge to diamond selection: the diamond must first reach the level of internal flawless clarity, and it must have the excellent white luster of top Wesselton diamonds; it must also be perfect in size, shape and cut To ensure that 162 individual baguette diamonds match perfectly and elegantly. The task of selecting diamonds rests with the gem experts of Patek Philippe. They spend a lot of time holding a magnifying glass to carefully identify hundreds of diamonds, placing them side by side, constantly screening, rematching, and reassembling until they finally find an artistic sense of tassel Shaped 162 diamonds. The classic 18K rose gold pin buckle is also set with 20 baguette diamonds (approximately 0.72 carats). In contrast, the selection of these diamonds is relatively easy. The large square scale crocodile leather strap shines in black, matching the color of the dial.
Before inserting a matched gem, the gemstone craftsman must refer to the accurate drawing to cut each elongated diamond into a shape that matches its location to ensure a perfect fit between adjacent diamonds. All this shows that the value of high-end jewelry watches is not only related to the price of gemstones, but also to the hard work of designers, gem experts, gem craftsmen and jewelry inlayers, who spend weeks creating the perfect watch. Make it shine on the wrists of extraordinary Patek Philippe users.
Superb craftsmanship of the dial craftsman
The design of the dial is both understated and luxurious. Deep black contrasts brilliantly with the brilliant white of diamonds and the warmth of rose gold. This full black color is derived from the color formed by twelve consecutive varnish coatings, and each color must be absolutely flawless. If a layer of varnish is left with dust, even the slightest dust will destroy the effect of the entire dial, so it must be operated in a clean room environment. In addition, each varnish layer must be completely dry and checked to determine that there are no air holes before proceeding to the next layer. Subsequent key operations include drilling the pivots of the sword-shaped hour and minute hands, and drilling 24 miniature nail holes for 12 arrow-shaped hour markers to securely fix it to the dial from the back. The production of 18K gold hands and time scales also takes a lot of time. The two facets of the sword-shaped hour hand and the three facets of the hour mark are mirror-polished, and the extended ridges with a sharp outline in the middle make the geometric three-dimensional shape clearer. The slightest imperfection will not be tolerated throughout the production process. Once a flaw is found, there is only one way to deal with it: discard it. Patek Philippe does everything it can to make the bezel, hour markers, and hands into small, perfect pieces of art. Indeed, the time required to create the dial of the Calatrava Ref. 4895 fine jewellery watch is much longer than the entire time required for many watches.
The core technology of watchmaking
In addition to the superb skills required to make the case, set the gems, and create the dial, Patek Philippe’s core technology cannot be ignored. This is the hand-wound mechanical movement Caliber 215 that drives the hands of the watch. This legendary movement has maintained a highly accurate timekeeping since its birth more than 40 years ago. With the transparent cover of the new Calatrava Ref. 4895R watch, we can see its gorgeous style. The elegant curved gear splint, spring splint, balance splint, and independent escapement splint are all decorated with Geneva stripes, and the mirror chamfer finishes dazzle the edges. Part of the motherboard can be seen from the gap between the splint and the gear, and its surface is decorated with swirling circular patterns composed of countless tiny overlapping, cloud-like stripes. The frequency of this movement is 28,800 half-oscillations (4 Hz) per hour. It is equipped with a Patek Philippe Gyromax® balance and the patented Silinvar® silicon Spiromax® hairspring. This innovative silicon material has unique physical properties and geometric structures, which guarantees the watch’s excellent travel time accuracy. Of course, the accuracy of the travel time is also overseen by Patek Philippe, the most stringent quality standard in the watchmaking industry. According to its requirements, the movement time of Caliber 215 movement is less than -3 to +2 seconds per day. The gold-plated ‘PP’ engraving on the escape wheel splint indicates that this timepiece meets this highest requirement.
Patek Philippe’s dial making tradition
The dial is often regarded as the facade of a watch and has a very important impact on the overall impression of the watch. As a result, dial artisans have become highly sought after professionals in the watchmaking industry, especially at Patek Philippe, who have a very close relationship with watchmaking workshops. In the early 1930s, Patek Philippe’s founding family was preparing to sell the company due to a lack of heirs. Geneva watch maker Stern Frères (Stern brothers) was one of the buyers preparing to enter Patek Philippe. Stern Frères was the most professional and well-known dial expert in the Swiss watchmaking industry at that time, and Patek Philippe was also one of its customers. Stern Frères is also located in Geneva, and the owners of both companies know each other and trust each other. Eventually, in 1932, Patek Philippe’s founding family trusted the company into the hands of the Stern brothers. Since then, the Stern family has always maintained their focus on ‘watch facades’ and has introduced various masterpieces of dials created using filigree enamel, enamel micro-painting, carved patterns, gem inlays, and fine wood inlays. The current president, Mr. Terry Stern, is the fourth generation member of the Stern family in charge of Patek Philippe. This family heritage fully proves that the family’s dial tradition has not been replaced by the brand’s watchmaking tradition, but a perfect combination of the two. Therefore, Patek Philippe still operates the dial manufacturing business, launching many dial art masterpieces, just like the dial presented in the new Calatrava Ref. 4895R fine jewelry watch.
The above is the 2014 Basel watch related information carefully prepared by the staff in front of the Watch House. In the future, we will continue to provide more and more intuitive exhibition reports for everyone, please pay attention to it.
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